Spring/summer 2023 felt, in many ways, like a step backwards for inclusive casting, but there were a handful of fresh faces that broke the mould. From Enya Davis – who Rosie Vogel-Eades, Vogue’s global director of talent and casting, says is “undoubtedly the new British star” – to Wai Ki – “a spunky newcomer we can’t take our eyes off” – New York, London, Milan and Paris introduced the industry to bright stars who have promising futures ahead.
Take Ida Heiner. “I have never felt such intense hair envy!” says Vogel-Eades. “She is incredibly serene for someone who just turned 18.” Or Celeste Fitzpatrick – who Janay Bailey, Vogue’s talent and casting manager, says has a “quiet yet composed nature” despite being catapulted onto the catwalks of Valentino, Saint Laurent and Prada during her first season.
It was impossible to miss Alaato Jazyper and Mary Ukech, who racked up tens of shows between them, while Prada’s opening slot decreed that Tanya Churbanova’s career is set. Simone Rocha debutante Shahnaz Indira, meanwhile, had agents’ phones ringing after her memorable turn in the designer’s Old Bailey show.
Here, a detailed look at the breakout models of spring/summer 2023, who intrigued, delighted and impressed Vogue’s casting team.
Alaato Jazyper
Alaato Jazyper might be new on the scene, but the South Sudan native – whose breakout moment was as a Saint Laurent exclusive for autumn/winter 2022 – has already walked the runways for Chanel, Balenciaga, Valentino and Louis Vuitton. With striking features and a power strut, Alaato is unquestionably a fashion star on the rise.
Shahnaz Indira
Jakarta’s Shahnaz Indira, 19, was the first Indonesian curve model to appear on London’s runways. The designer who cast her? Simone Rocha. “I am so glad I can have a positive impact on people who have the same struggles as me,” says Indira, who was scouted over a year ago in her hometown and recently signed with London agency, Milk. “I didn’t expect to take the job this far because somehow being a model was out of my comfort zone, but it turns out I love all the experiences.” Simone Rocha is just the beginning of Shahnaz’s journey.
Tanya Churbanova
She’s the model who showed us that we’ll all be wearing onesies come spring. After Tanya Churbanova took her first turn on a catwalk in 2019, in a Prada show no less, the gamine Russian model who was scouted through social media, returned to the Milanese brand’s runway, where she opened its spring/summer 2023 show wearing spooky lashes and a shirted romper. It was a busy season for the 22-year old breakout star, who was also a prominent fixture on the Paris runways, walking for brands including Miu Miu, Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Givenchy, Loewe and Victoria Beckham.
Ida Heiner
This season was “a lot of work and a lot of Uber rides” for Ida Heiner. The Danish model travelled between New York, London, Milan and Paris for the first time and walked for the likes of The Row, JW Anderson, Nensi Dojaka, Saint Laurent – “a dream come true” – Versace and Louis Vuitton, her “fashion family”. “It’s always a treat to walk a show together with friends,” says Heiner. “It felt like a very intense, but fun, school trip.” AC
Mary Ukech
“This season was my best season,” says South Sudanese model, Mary Ukech. Out of the 19 shows she walked, Valentino and Saint Laurent were her favourites. Having opened Pierpaolo’s hot-pink autumn/winter 2022 showcase in February, she closed the Italian designer’s spring/summer 2023 presentation wearing “the most beautiful black dress”. “I felt like I was walking the red carpet, attending the Met Gala, it was just everything for me,” she explains. As for Saint Laurent? “Walking down the runway – with the music playing, the sounds of the water trickling and the chill breeze – that moment will forever be imprinted for me,” she tells British Vogue. “It’s just so exciting to be able to model these creations.”
Wai Ki
New Zealand-born, Hong Kong-raised volleyball fanatic Wai Ki was encouraged by a fellow team member, while studying design at university, to pursue a modelling career. The nudge paid off, and 22-year-old Ki, an art lover who is fluent in Cantonese, English and Mandarin walked in shows across every major fashion city for spring/summer 2023, including Khaite, Simone Rocha, Sportmax, Acne Studios and Rokh. Her final catwalk turn? On the closing day of Paris Fashion Week, for Louis Vuitton.
Enya Davis
Hailing from Bath, Enya Davis has only just started working as a model. Her debut show? JW Anderson’s London spectacle, for which she wore a breathtaking floor-length slip dress. Stints on the runways of Simone Rocha, Fendi, Acne Studios and Hermès followed. If these shows are Enya’s first foray into fashion, we can only expect great things from here on out. AK
Annemary Aderibigbe
Nigerian-Dutch model Annemary Aderibigbe grew up in the tiny village of Hattem in the Netherlands, but her path to New York, London, Milan and Paris was mapped out when she was scouted, aged 17, while shopping in Amsterdam. By 19, she was modelling full time. Now 22, with a season of major moments – from Michael Kors to Max Mara, Brandon Maxwell to Isabel Marant – under her belt, she’ll surely be in the campaign game soon. “I’ve enjoyed every show,” says this small-town girl who’s soaking up every second of the bright lights. “They were all so beautiful!” AN
Celeste Fitzpatrick
With the likes of Karolina Kurkova, Sasha Pivovarova and Anok Yai all making their runway debuts at Prada, Celeste Fitzpatrick is certainly in good company after hitting the catwalk for the Italian fashion house for the first time during Milan Fashion Week. The 20-year-old from Belfast – who was convinced by a friend to sign with an agency back in 2019 – went on to walk for Dior, Saint Laurent and Valentino, finishing the season at the latter in a dramatic green sequined dress. Watch out for her distinctive pixie crop on the runways next season.
Bhumika Bansal
After being scouted at the age of 16, Bhumika Bansal – who is from the small town of Agra in Uttar Pradesh, northern India – made her debut at JW Anderson this season, in an attention-grabbing goldfish bowl dress, no less. The 18-year-old badminton player went on to walk for DSquared and Bottega Veneta in Milan, rounding off an impressive debut season.
This article was originally published on Vogue UK.
