Suit yourself but tailoring’s new look is the timeless waistcoat worn as a top and it is more impeccable now than ever.
Waistcoats, slouchy suits and ties are Annie Hall, Kate Moss and Bianca Jagger inspired. Borrowing traditional menswear is not new but wearing a waistcoat as a top is radically feminine and modern. Recently Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid have been walking the streets wearing a button-up waistcoat and oversized suit pants, proving that this combo is a sleek makeover of formal suit attire and an elevated pep of prep.
The spring/summer 2022 runways showcased lots of waistcoats from Saint Laurent’s sleek waistcoat look to Chanel’s pink tweed unbuttoned waistcoat with a matching mini, Alexandre Vauthier interprets the classic waistcoat into a modern cropped style while Givenchy, Coach and Burberry’s were longer in length.
The history of waistcoats is fascinating and it explains our allure of women in suits. The sleeveless waistcoat with small lapels goes back to 17th century menswear. The waistcoat was worn for formal occasions and conveyed opulence and decadence. Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 Le Smoking collection, consisting of a suit jacket and trousers, was introduced at a time when it was controversial and scandalous for women to wear suits and men’s clothing. Photographer Helmut Newton shot Le Smoking in 1975 and the iconic look redefined power dressing. Le Smoking was empowering and created a new perception of sensuous but androgynous femininity. Once essential to menswear the chic waistcoat means business. Today oversized trousers styled with a waistcoat has a carefree assertiveness to it and encapsulates an attitude of power.
The waistcoat should be a wardrobe staple as it is formal but versatile and can be worn everywhere and anywhere. The waistcoat is as practical as a tank top and the tailored trend can be mixed and matched, is minimal in tonal linen or can be worn as part of a colourful, pastel or printed set such as a check or pinstripe waistcoat with matching trousers or midi skirt. A cropped waistcoat is flattering but can also be styled casually with oversized ’00s wide-legged jeans with Mary-Janes, loafers and white socks. Let’s suit up with waistcoats.
Words by Tamar Hayden
