Fashion’s favourite flat, the ballet pump, had competition on the autumn/winter 2023 catwalks, as en pointe was usurped by literal points, with the sharp slip-on taking precedence on the runway. Elsewhere, our affection for the sculptural and surreal was tempered by the ubiquity of the black court shoe, which was seen everywhere from Saint Laurent to Christopher Kane and prompted all nine-to-fivers to reconsider a once passé office staple.
Romance also permeated the realm of footwear, with brands embracing Mary-Janes and bow details, while others championed haute at-home elegance, exemplified by Bottega Veneta’s minimalist sock shoe. Fiery red, one of the season’s defining shades, was showcased in both dainty and party-ready forms at Prada and Ferragamo.
Here, we break down the standout shoe trends from the autumn/winter 2023 season.
Black court shoes
The walk to the water cooler seems a lot more appealing now that office workers’ go-to-heels (of the type swapped out for trainers ahead of the commute), have returned to the runway. The black court shoe was the most ubiquitous heel on the catwalks: sleek, chic and streamlined, and a counterproposal to all the bling that has bolstered out-out shoes in recent seasons. Look to Prada, Saint Laurent, Moschino, Christopher Kane, Tory Burch, Huishan Zhang, No. 21, Versace and Schiaparelli for elegant iterations, wonderfully suited to a lo-fi look, an LBD, or for a polished plod to the printer. LH
Flats with sharp points
The ballet shoe moved from first to second position, as autumn/winter’s new fancy flat arrived with force on the catwalks. A sharp point is essential here: look to Prada’s razor-sharp version accented with origami details; Giorgio Armani’s delectable raspberry iteration; Wales Bonner’s bejewelled buckles and Tory Burch’s sculptural hardware, plus Lora Piana’s stark white take on the trend, boasting a touch of toe cleavage. For a full riff on the runways, pair your perfect points with patterned tights. LH
House shoes
Hygge gets haute as brands proved home is where the art is, showing sumptuous styles inspired by a soporific sofa day. Cue the rib knit sock boot which opened the Bottega Veneta show, its cream colour best suited to walking on carpet; the orthopaedic Loewe slip-on house clog; the Sandy Liang satin flat paired with knee-high leg warmers and, at JW Anderson, no shoes at all, just white socks. LH
Wedges
A sturdy counterpart to those spindly kitten heels that get stuck in pavement grates and floorboards, the sturdy wedge heel cropped up on the spring/summer 2023 catwalks, with the autumn/winter 2023 collections proving that they’re here to stay. The season’s more pragmatic wardrobe styles will see you traversing pavements without trepidation in Louis Vuitton’s ruched wedge boots, Dior’s sculptural espadrilles, Molly Goddard’s punky stud-strap flatforms or AZ Factory and Colville’s raised flip-flops. LH
Mary-Jane heels
The catwalks ushered in a refined elegance, all finessed silhouettes, precise cuts and luxurious fabrications that will stand the test of time. The Mary-Jane heel has a demure sophistication, beloved by Alexa Chung and the Olsen twins, best paired – for a touch of old world glamour – with opaque tights or ribbed ankle socks and an A-line skirt, à la Emilia Wickstead and Dior. Buckle up with Roberto Cavalli, A.P.C., Huishan Zhang, Giorgio Armani and Rodarte. LH
Lace-up and buckled boots
The autumn/winter 2023 runways paid tribute to Vivienne Westwood. Perhaps her punk attitude was behind all the buckled and lace-up footwear that clomped down the catwalks? Such styles bring a welcome dose of toughness, as well as practicality. Ankle-length combat boots from Dior, Fendi or Akris give floral maxi dresses some edge. Choose a striking pair of eyelet boots from Roberto Cavalli, fighting-fit boxing boots by Gucci, or a statement heeled version from Patou. AK
Slouchy thigh-high boots
The thigh-high boot has been a success story for numerous seasons, but for autumn/winter 2023 they’re sitting with a lot more slouch, and are less overtly sexy than skin-tight pairs. Keep things classic with a sleek suede style like those seen at Bally, or amp up the drama with statement details, like the chains, zips and saddle stitching proposed by Stella McCartney and Isabel Marant. The most insouciant styles of all? Burberry’s waders in ice-blue suede. Heads will turn. AK
Denim footwear
Denim got even more versatile for autumn/winter 2023. Isabel Marant and Etro showed sleek denim shoes that will add edge to classic dresses, be they daytime or evening styles. Meanwhile bold, statement-making boots at Acne Studios and Y/Project will swiftly become the focal point of any ensemble. AK
Bow embellishments
From the return of the hourglass silhouette to decadent florals, feminine flourishes punctuated the easy, tailored shapes we saw on the runway. Miuccia Prada, Simone Rocha, Erdem Moralioğlu and the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte are all long-time devotees of bow details, and this season the girlish accent was seen at Chanel, Loewe and Versace, too. Sweeten up any look with a bow-adorned pair of ballet flats or party heels. AK
Menswear-inspired brogues and loafers
From the white shirt to the sweeping black coat, the tailored suit to the black tie, autumn/winter 2023 is all about long-lasting classics. Enter menswear-inspired loafers and brogues. Put on timeless leather Derby shoes, as suggested by Max Mara and Giorgio Armani, to add a little stomp to a look. For something a little less formal, seek out experimental shapes, like Palomo Spain’s winklepickers, and style them with a slouchy suit. AK
Footwear in shades of red
Red emerged as a key colour this season, and embracing it via your footwear can make for a bold statement. For a ladylike aesthetic, Prada and Ferragamo’s kitten heels are excellent choices, while Stella McCartney and Tory Burch offer styles that are perfect for a date night after-dark. AK
