Having dry skin on your face can be frustrating. For one thing, flaking and peeling don’t exactly make for a radiant complexion. More importantly, though, thirsty skin can be downright uncomfortable. Maybe you notice tightness around your mouth and eyes, or perhaps you’re battling stubborn scaly patches that no dollop of moisturiser can soothe.It’s important to think about your daily routine a little differently, says Dr Anna Yasmine Kirkorian, chief of dermatology at Children’s National Hospital in Washington, DC. “Some people are just more prone to drier skin than others at baseline,” Dr Kirkorian says. However, she adds, “our everyday habits can dry us out further.”
Regardless of what’s making your face so parched, tending to your skin’s natural moisture barrier — the stratum corneum, to get technical — is often key to alleviating any tightness, flaking or peeling. This starts with what’s triggering your dryness. That’s why we asked a few dermatologists to break down the most common causes of dry skin on your face, and how to restore your natural glow.
Generally speaking...
Flaking skin reflects damage to your skin barrier, which keeps hydration in and [bacteria, chemicals, allergens or environmental pollutants] out, Dr Kirkorian says. If your dryness is paired with other more severe and persistent symptoms such as a rash, scaly patches, or painfully raw and sensitive skin, that can indicate an underlying condition such as eczema or psoriasis.
Flare-ups of these inflammatory diseases go beyond everyday tightness and flaking. A dermatologist or primary care provider can diagnose these issues and recommend treatment options, such as prescription topical or oral medications.Chronic skin conditions aside, here are some of the most common reasons your face might be feeling (and looking) like a desert.
1. You’re going too hard on skincare ‘actives’
But wait, aren’t ingredients like vitamin C and salicylic acid supposed to help your face? In moderation, yes, but ‘too much of a good thing’ certainly applies to skincare products too.
An ‘active’ is an ingredient responsible for targeting a specific skin concern, such as dark spots or acne, so it’s usually pretty potent. In a cleanser that says it’ll treat your cluster of pimples, for example, the active ingredient is what actually addresses those zits — benzoyl peroxide or sulphur, perhaps. Other common examples of actives include retinol and other retinoids, as well as most acids (including glycolic, azaleic and lactic).
“The problem arises when people overdo it, because [even in normal, oily, or non-sensitive skin], using too many harsh products can strip your moisture barrier,” says Dr Shasa Hu, board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Miami Miller School of Medicine. When this outer layer is compromised, it’s less effective at retaining water, resulting in dryness.
You don’t need to avoid strong ingredients like the plague, but ensure you don’t use them too frequently or all at the same time, Dr Kirkorian advises.
“The key is to make this a multi- step process, meaning you may need to wax and wane on certain products,”she adds. For example, after you spot-treat that pesky chin zit with 10% benzoyl peroxide, maybe don’t apply a moisturiser containing retinol afterwards. Or if your face starts to feel itchy and tight after you add, say, a vitamin C serum to your routine, it’s smart to lay off until the irritation subsides. Then you can slowly re-introduce the active to see what frequency works for you, Dr Kirkorian says.
Another derm-approved way to avoid aggravating your face: skin cycling– rotating retinoids and exfoliants so your skin has a chance to heal between treatments.
2. Your products have alcohol as a main ingredient
Alcohol is commonly on the list of no-nos for dry skin, mainly because in excess, it can deplete sebum (a thick, oily substance naturally produced by your sebaceous or oil glands) and dehydrate your face.It’s important to note that not all alcohols are bad. Some, such as cetyl, stearyl or cetearyl, can actually make your skin smoother or softer. Isopropyl and ethyl, on the other hand, can strip it of its natural oils, making toners or cleansers with these ingredients ideal for some acne-prone folks, Dr Hu says (since excess sebum can clog pores and cause breakouts). However, they’re usually a bit too harsh for dry, damaged or easily irritated skin, she adds.
If any alcohol is one of the first few ingredients in a product you use regularly, give it a rest. Instead, play it safe with alcohol-free alternatives and consider avoiding added fragrance, too. The chemicals responsible for that floral or fruity scent can be irritating to sensitive skin, per the American Academy of Dermatology.
3. You’re using physical exfoliants
Cleansers and face scrubs with exfoliating particles like sugar or salt might seem like a smart way to de-flake your face. As it turns out, they can have the opposite effect. “Physical exfoliation is known to cause invisible cuts called micro trauma, which isn’t that harmful for most people with normal skin; but for those with dry or sensitive skin, this abrasion can further irritate an already compromised barrier,” Dr Hu warns. Another issue with scrubs: “It’s hard to control the degree of exfoliation, and most people end up using too much or scrubbing with too much force,” she adds, all of which can do extra damage to your skin barrier (and make it less effective at retaining water).
Don’t avoid exfoliating altogether - you’d be missing out on some pretty cool benefits like removing dead skin cells and unclogging pores. Instead of the walnut or sugar scrub, Dr Kally Papantoniou, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, recommends chemical exfoliants, specifically, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid or lactic acid. AHAs work by loosening up the bonds holding dead skin cells together, making it easier to shed them off. Make sure to patch test before applying any acids all over your face, in order to avoid irritation or a potential allergic reaction.
4. You’re removing makeup with wipes
On lazy Sunday evenings (or busy Monday nights), washing your face or double cleansing can feel like a real chore. As tempting as it is to grab a disposable wipe to swiftly remove mascara, foundation and sunscreen, this convenient habit could be the reason your skin feels so dry, according to Dr Hu.First, a cleansing cloth alone isn’t always enough to get rid of makeup or dirt, which if left behind can clog your pores and lead to breakouts. Plus, the friction from rubbing anything across your cheeks, forehead and delicate eye area can damage your skin barrier and dry it out, Dr Hu says. (Wipes often contain those potentially problematic added fragrances too.)
A gentle face wash with soothing, hydrating ingredients (niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and glycerin are good choices) is key to avoiding further dehydration, Dr Papantoniou says. Ideally, your cleanser’s label should say things like gentle”, “creamy”,or “moisturising”.
For extra-dry skin types, oil-based cleansers may be the way to go since they typically don’t contain surfactants (harsh chemical compounds often found in detergents or foaming products). However, it’s worth noting that oils can also clog your pores. If you’re acne-prone, consider a mild wash, preferably one that says “noncomedogenic” on the label, Dr Hu advises.
Finally, when a cleanser alone isn’t enough to remove persistent or waterproof makeup, Dr Kirkorian suggests massaging your face with Vaseline, which only contains one ingredient (petrolatum), before cleansing. This method, she says, is less aggressive than wipes. We totally get it if Vaseline is too greasy for you, so another great and gentle option is micellar water, which contains purified water and hydrating micelles (clusters of molecules that bind to oil).
5. You’re over-cleansing
Before you proceed with your face wash or micellar water, be aware of too much cleansing. “There’s this misconception that you need to wash your face intensely and frequently to keep it clean, and doing so too often can remove the skin’s natural moisturising oils,” Dr Kirkorian says.
There’s no one-size-fits-all rule for how often to wash your face. However, Dr Hu recommends a general guideline of once a day (twice, max) and preferably in the evening. That way, you’ll take off all the oil and dirt (and makeup, perhaps) that’s probably piled up during the day.
In the morning, if you’re feeling super- dry, you can skip the cleanser and rinse your face with plain old water. Assuming you washed your face thoroughly the night before, your skin probably hasn’t accumulated a ton of dirt or oil while you slept, she says. If you exercise in the morning (or midday) and get sweaty, cleanse a second time to avoid clogged pores, Dr Hu says.
6. You’re taking hot showers.
Winding down with a steamy shower can be the perfect way to relax. But a scorching rinse may worsen your parched face. Hot water can deplete the skin of its natural oils, leading to drier skin, Dr Papantoniou says.
But you don’t have to end your day with a freezing shower (or cold plunge). Eek! Instead, the best (and probably most realistic) solution is keeping the water at a warm-to-tepid temperature. (If you’re really keen on washing up in a liquid inferno, start with warm water, then transition to hot for just a few blissful minutes).
As an added hydration bonus, Dr Papantoniou recommends investing in a humidifier, which can help balance out the moisture in the air — a benefit that’s especially important in colder, drier months.
7.You’re using the wrong moisturiser
Any lotion or cream should be able to fix flaking or peeling, right? Not exactly. Before we get into the specific moisturisers you should (and shouldn’t) be using, it’s helpful to brush up on common skin hydrators.
Most moisturiser formulas contain ingredients from one or more of these three categories: humectants, which attract water to the skin; emollients, which soften and smooth the surface; and occlusives, which sit on top and seal in moisture. In tandem, this trio can help the skin repair itself better. People with dry skin should pay particular attention to the latter two categories.
“Gel- or water-based moisturisers tend to be lighter,” Dr Hu says, which is fine when it’s humid out and you want something not-so-greasy, or if you have oily skin. These formulas aren’t ideal for dry skin, though, because they primarily contain water and humectants (like glycerin or hyaluronic acid), she explains. Those are great for attracting moisture, but you also need occlusives and emollients to lock in that hydration, especially in cold, dry weather.
The derms we consulted recommend a thick, cream-based moisturiser containing all three hydrators. One standout ingredient to look for is ceramides, a holy grail emollient (or more specifically a lipid) that binds your skin cells together, strengthening the moisture barrier. Shea butter and dimethicone are some other great barrier-repairing (and occlusive) options that can lock in moisture, Dr Hu adds.
While rich creams can be highly hydrating, it’s worth noting that some common occlusive ingredients (like coconut oil) can also clog pores. As with facial cleansers, look for products labelled “noncomedogenic” to avoid breakouts.
If you take one thing from this article, it should be this: the best way to relieve your dry face is to tend to your skin barrier. If you’re kind to this protective layer, your face will be better equipped to hold onto moisture. And it’ll hopefully repay you with a healthy glow.
