From the horseshoe-embellished polos at Stella McCartney’s autumn/winter 2023 show to the country-chic styling in The Crown season six and TikTok’s latest breakout fashion star: Horsegirl (yes really), it seems as though fashion is having a bit of an equestrian moment this season. In fact, if Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s latest Instagram post is anything to go by, even the denim department is not immune from a little horseplay. World: meet the “horseshoe” jean.
Too loose to be a straight-leg style, but more sculptural than your average baggy jeans, the horseshoe is identifiable by its unusual silhouette that curves out at the hip and tapers in at the ankle, creating its distinctive shape. Alaïa was one of the brands that led the way, with a dramatic double-denim look that made a good case for wearing jeans to your next cocktail ’do. And of course, it was Alaïa that Huntington-Whiteley turned to for her own horseshoe moment, styling hers with a simple black roll-neck and heeled boots.
“The Horseshoe feels a bit sculptural, but still has the ability to look relaxed and sophisticated. It references vintage styles, yet feels modern,” says Marianne McDonald, creative director at Citizens Of Humanity. “It’s a divisive style though, and when it was first posted on Instagram people had very strong opinions. That’s when we realised we had a bestseller on our hands!”
Love it or hate it, the horseshoe is here to stay for 2024. But what are our top tips for making this denim silhouette work? Having tried on a pair of Citizens Of Humanity’s horseshoe jeans, I can confirm that the style looks best when worn full-length and grazing the top of the shoe à la Rosie. I also recommend opting for a mid-rise, rather than anything too low-slung or high-waisted. Shoe-wise, horseshoe jeans suit a heel – whether that’s a kitten heel slingback or a pointed boot. Finally, remember that this jeans fit can sometimes be referred to as a “barrel leg”, so consider this when searching for pairs online.
This article was originally published on Vogue UK.