Since the announcement of Demna Gvasalia stepping down at Balenciaga the fashion world was a buzz with speculation while waiting in anticipation for news of his replacement. It was a unanimous consensus that Demna's time at the luxury fashion house was over and that a breath of fresh air was needed. Stepping into this pivotal role was Pierpaolo Piccioli, who was given a mere three months to conceptualize and execute a Spring/Summer 2026 Ready-to-Wear collection. Some speculated the tight deadline to design a collection could prove to be his downfall considering the rapid pace and unrealistic demands of the industry and the corporates that run it?
My personal thoughts are a resounding no. Pierpaolo's presentation was indeed a breath of fresh air for Balenciaga. His presentation proved to be a refreshing departure for Balenciaga, a masterclass in seamlessly integrating innovation with a respectful nod to the brand's rich heritage. In a candid statement to Vogue, Piccioli himself acknowledged the significant contributions of his predecessors, Demna and Nicolas Ghesquière, and their indelible impact on shaping the house's identity. While reviewing Demna's past collections, a clear distinction was made. Piccioli introduced a more refined and elevated aesthetic compared to the past presentations. Streetwear is no longer the core focus which was a defining characteristic of Demna's era and the looks signaled a shift to perhaps a new sophisticated consumer or if you will the same consumer just more mature?
Piccioli opened the show with his modern interpretation of the house's archival piece, the sack dress paired with Demna's alien shades.This iconic garment, originally debuted in 1957, caused a stir as it was the antithesis of what the House of Dior was designing which was emphasising the female form. The use of T-shirts paired with a fringed skirt in a striking colour was extremely elevated. The use of shapes and volume like the balloon skirt as well as feathers, and ruched floral appliques were all signatures of Pierpaolo's personal aesthetic. Which blended seamlessly with Balenciaga's new direction.
Well done Pierpaolo Piccioli!
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