Abiah Mahlase and Bradley Muttitt are the creative forces behind AMEN Fashion SA, specialising in both men's and women's fashion as well as interior design. Known for their distinctive approach, they craft garments and spaces for those who appreciate style narratives and are connoisseurs of contemporary African identities
Inspired by South African culture and heritage, Abiah and Bradley say they like to translate South African stories into their designs. “Our latest collection is themed “1994” which was a time of HOPE and OPTIMISM. We created a collection that speaks to the zeitgeist of that time. The designs are playful, bold, and a mashup of prints, textures and colours to illustrate the rich diversity of cultures, races, iconoclasts and mindsets within South Africa.” Expanding on their creative process, they share that they incorporated motifs into the designs of prominent figures, such as Nelson Mandela, FW de Klerk, Desmond Tutu and Madam & Eve, who pioneered the idea of a ‘rainbow nation.’
Glamour: In what other ways do you fuse African Heritage into your work?
A&B: Another example of our incorporation of the African Heritage into our designs and storytelling was our Phenduka A/W19 collection which was an exploration of mixing usually unusual/“un-matching” fabrics together to explore the concept of diversity and to illustrate how through fashion, diversity can and is beautiful. The collection looked at how South Africa has gone through many changes over the past 3 decades…From Apartheid to becoming a “RAINBOW NATION.” As a country we have “turned-around”/ ‘phenduka, from a nation once divided to one that stands united, bound by the vows of a new democratic constitution.
Glamour: You’ve been recognized for your unique approach to fashion and design. How do you see your role in shaping contemporary African fashion narratives and influencing global perceptions of African design?
A&B: Through our designs, we strive to continually push the African narrative in a manner that feels authentic to our perception of Africa and its relation with the rest of the world. There is a rising international intrigue of African stories, therefore by telling our stories through our collections and photoshoots, we are adding our 2 cents and understanding of fashion in order to build onto the global perception of contemporary African fashion as being that of a multifaceted, eclectic and developing nature.
Glamour: Having showcased your work at various fashion platforms including Mozambique Fashion Week and AFI Fashion Week, how did your experience at FAME Week contribute to your growth as designers? What key takeaways from FAME Week have influenced your recent projects?
A&B: It was an incredible experience to be showcasing on a platform that traditionally only caters for the TV & film industries. The key takeaway from our experience at FAME Week was the need for designers and members of the fashion industry to find/create more platforms to facilitate networking with key players in other industries within the South African and African economies. The film and television industry is renowned for its local and global reach. This made networking at FAME Week a major step towards unlocking new opportunities within the film and television industries that are available to local fashion talent. A process of cross pollination between different South African and African industries in order to grow the economy in its entirety.
Glamour: Your designs often merge traditional African methods with modern techniques. Could you elaborate on a specific project or collection where this fusion was particularly impactful, and how it reflects your commitment to celebrating African culture?
A&B: We are both Africans operating a local South African brand, with global aspirations. We think it is important to take from our cultures to create a “style” that is relevant to the times we are living in. Our inspiration is derived from the environment around us. A standout collection where the fusion between traditional African methods and modern techniques is the ‘Moriri’, a Setswana word for 'hair', AMEN SALON '22 Ready-to-wear collection.
The interpretation of the source of inspiration ranged from the literal, in the form of a shift dress and a short and shirt combination both adorned in a custom created print by artist Isaac Zavale inspired by retro hairstyle posters which have come to be associated with the tradition and history of hair salons in Africa. Fringed beaded finishes hemming hems, gathered ruffles and interlocked gold chains adorning the array of garments as a representative interpretation of the variety of hairstyles created and paraded on the streets of Johannesburg. An urban inspired collection accessorised with bags fusing print and hair extension braids.
Glamour: Social impact is a significant aspect of many modern brands. How does AMEN Fashion SA engage in social impact initiatives, and what role do you believe fashion should play in addressing social issues within South Africa?
A&B: We believe it is critical for us to engage with narratives that discuss social issues and challenges within South Africa. Once we have the narrative going around social issues, it is a good place to start to deal with these challenges. We have worked on women empowerment programmes at various community centres around Johannesburg, up-skilling women with design, pattern-making and sewing skills. Our Mozambique fashion week collection in 2019 celebrated this empowerment, whereby the women from the Bertrams community centre were key in creating the collection we showcased. We have created collections around “GenderMustFall” utilising photographs by Leroy Jason from the protests that were happening around Johannesburg. As a brand, and in our personal capacities, we stand for Inclusivity and strive to celebrate the diversity within this blooming beautiful continent.
Glamour: As a proudly South African brand, how do you balance the local and international influences in your designs while staying true to your roots? What does being a South African designer mean to you personally and professionally?
A&B: For us this has not been a challenge as our cultural roots seem to always shine through our designs. Being a South African designer is exciting as we have a rich and diverse culture. There is no place like South Africa and this needs to be celebrated as a designer in South Africa. We are part of a growing industry which allows copious room for experimentation, expression, and the search and discovery of the South African design aesthetic.
Glamour: Your brand has evolved since its inception in 2014. How have your experiences and growth over the years shaped your current design philosophy and business practices?
A&B: Our brand has evolved drastically since our inception. We have learnt a lot and have overcome various challenges from working with big brands, partaking in great collaborations, showcasing on multiple runways and pop-ups and transitioning into the retail space. We have evolved from operating as a consultation based fashion business to one only available in-store or online unless by special appointment.
Glamour: With your unique approach to fashion and interior design, what future projects or collaborations are you excited about, and how do you envision these contributing to the broader fashion and design landscape in South Africa?
A&B: We are excited about pushing sales in the retail spaces. It is an avenue that we have been working towards and feel it will greatly impact the growth of our fashion and interior operations and business.
Glamour: Reflecting on your journey from local fame to international recognition, what advice would you give to emerging designers who aspire to make a mark in both the fashion and décor industries?
A&B: As cliche as it may sound … stay true to your vision! Persistence is key. Try to build up a support network to ensure sustainability in this industry.
Glamour: At the back of Heritage Month, what message would you like to convey through your work, and how do you hope it will inspire others to embrace and celebrate their own cultural identities?
A&B: We like to approach our designs from a fun and positive exploration of our South African heritage. We are a multi-racial duo who combine our outlook on life in the South African landscape in order to produce something that celebrates the diversity within the country. We hope our designs are uplifting and inspiring as this is always our goal. Hopefully, our authenticity in telling our bit of the African tale, will translate with the audience feeling uplifted and compelled to embrace and discover their own cultural identities.
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