Emerging fashion designer Yamkela Mahlelehlehle joins Pick n Pay Clothing Futurewear as the first 2024 designer.
Growing up in the Eastern Cape, Yamkela says fashion design wasn't a typical career choice, yet she pursued it with passion. Her creative spark was ignited early on, as she transformed items from her childhood home; one cherished memory is fashioning a bag from her mother’s bra. “I really thought I was onto something,” she recalls.
Now based in Cape Town, Yamkela has been named as the first 2024 designer for Pick n Pay Clothing’s Futurewear programme, an initiative dedicated to nurturing emerging talent in fashion. This programme seeks to launch the next generation of designers by helping them craft commercially viable and exclusive collections for the retailer, ensuring customers enjoy access to trendy, affordable, locally designed apparel.
Collaborating with the Pick n Pay team, she has launched a limited-edition collection under her label, Maison KOTR, titled “Kolours of the Reignbow”.
Now in its fifth year, Futurewear was envisioned by Pick n Pay Clothing Executive Hazel Pillay and celebrated fashion designer Gavin Rajah to support local designers and boost production while providing a platform for creative commercialization. Pillay states, “The programme evolves annually, shaped by its applicants, trends, global influences, and our commitment to innovation. This year’s designers each bring a distinctive flair, and we are confident our customers will embrace their work.”
Gavin praises Yamkela’s unique fusion of modern utility and artistic expression as a decisive factor in her selection. “Yamkela’s collection is tailored for the contemporary woman who appreciates both fashion and function.”
“Kolours of the Reignbow” features tailored waistcoats, skirts, and relaxed pants with athleisure touches, all embodying a chic, utilitarian vibe. A flowing dress adorned with pleated panels adds a touch of whimsy to this striking line.
She speaks to GLAMOUR about her journey to Futurewear and her collection.
Can you tell us about your journey from growing up in the Eastern Cape to becoming a fashion designer in Cape Town? What were some of the key moments that shaped your path?
I moved to Cape Town to study consumer science which I later dropped out of within four months of the course as it didn’t align with what I wanted to do.
During that time I was involved in a few projects from making badly made bags to organising events for creative to come perform /exhibit their work to selling thrift wear or secondhand clothes. My fondest experiences would be when I was part of an organisation that hosted workshops that taught people living with disabilities how to sew and make bags so that they can create some sort of income for themselves.
You mentioned repurposing items from your childhood home. Can you share more about how these early creative experiences influenced your design aesthetic and approach?
Honestly I think that childhood process really influenced me in terms of not looking at an item as singular. I think about it in terms of what more it can be. To me repurposing was about giving new life and reimagining and I see apply those principles in my current practices.
What were some of the biggest challenges you faced while trying to pursue a career in fashion, especially in an environment where it wasn't a common path?
One of my main challenges would be funding. Unfortunately, you need to work a set amount of years in order to hit the honeypot, and most of the time, everything is self-funded, and not all of us have the privilege to afford such things easily.
We want studios and commercial spaces, but funding and sometimes resources that offer these things have such strict requirements, and I might not fit into that requirement pool, but I am still a strong candidate.
The second struggle, I would say, is realising that it takes time to find your niche audience, and it’s not something that happens overnight. It happens through trying and trying and trying until you find the people who understand what you're doing or want to engage with your work.
How did your partnership with Pick n Pay's Futurewear incubator programme come about, and what does it mean for you as an emerging designer?
One thing you need to know about me is that I’m a professional door knocker. I will knock on doors until something opens up. Fortunately for me, this collaboration with Pick n Pay Clothing was presented as a promoted post, which I saw on my Instagram feed; I read the requirements ,I sent in my portfolio, and I got it.
This has really expanded my mind's eye when it comes to the potential that a collection can have. I am not just focusing on one client base, but this opportunity has opened my mind up in terms of how I design for the mass audience while sticking to my own aesthetic. I don’t want to grow outside of myself, but I also want to expand myself so that I can tap into different tastes. Design is a language so I’m trying to learn each language so that I can interact with more people and this opportunity has awarded me that.
Can you elaborate on the inspiration behind your limited-edition collection, Kolours of the Reignbow? What message do you hope to convey through this collection?
The concept behind this collection is her story. I looked back in history, at women like Saartjie Baartman who went through so much, but if you look at images of her, she still held her back straight,still had pride in herself and obviously this is me speaking from the outside, but what I took from that is that whatever the world throws at a woman she always gets back up with so much strength so much grace and kindness.
I looked at myself, my own struggles and traumas…the person that I am today and released the strength and grace that I carry, and I looked at the women around me and found similar traits, this collection is the celebration of that.
Who do you envision as the ideal wearer of your designs? and what qualities do your clothes embody that you believe resonate with your target audience?
I honestly believe anyone can wear these pieces or my designs. The only characteristic trait they need is knowing themselves because my work is loud and proud, and you will draw attention to yourself.
I don’t really have an image of someone who should wear these clothes. I believe anyone can wear these. You just need to know yourself, be confident in yourself, and understand that you matter, and then watch yourself shine in these pieces.
Looking ahead, what are your goals for your career in fashion? How do you hope to impact the industry and inspire future designers from underrepresented backgrounds?
I want to be a pioneer in my field and I want to create a platform for those who come behind me so they don’t have to face the same struggles because we usually face similar struggles as black creatives.
I also want to venture out into the different tiers of design because, as I said, I’m a conceptual designer, and so I don’t just resonate with fashion design even though it’s my first love. I want to create a legacy that surpasses me , build something that is still here even when I’m gone. k?
*The Yamkela x Pick n Pay Clothing is available in 40 stores/and online (www.pnpclothing.co.za)
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